African hair, unlike other types of hair, is the most difficult and time-consuming hair to manage and treat. Its unmanageability, however, is what makes it unique and versatile. “African hair comes in many textures, from curls about as thick around as one's pinky finger, to as tight as the spring in a retractable pen,” states an Afro hairdresser at Caring for African Hair – a website dedicated to providing online help on caring for African textured hair.
When caring for natural black hair, the most important thing to remember is to be patient, take time and care. According to the site, African hair is exceptionally easy to care for when done carefully.
Do - Know Your Hair Type
Due to the nature and diverse variety of African hair, it can sometimes be difficult to know how to treat it. But, essentially, it is useful to keep in mind that because of the degree and intensity of its curls, it is the most fragile hair in any hair group. Below are examples of African hair textures.
- Type 3c – Springy, spiral curls of about 9mm to 12 mm in diameter (loose)
- Type 4a – very tight curls with peaks from 5 to 7mm apart (tight)
- Type 4b – very tight spiral curls of 7mm or less in diameter (kinky)
The intensity of the product to use will depend on the actual hair type and result desired. For example, the best African hair care product to use on type 4b (very tight and kinky hair) would be a more solid hair oil. For looser curls (type 3c) it is best to use liquid oil or a clear leave-in conditioner, recommends cornrows.co.uk.
Do - Use the Correct Tools
Before beginning to style African hair, it is important to have the correct tools to cope with the thick texture of the hair. Get hold of specific afro hair tools such as
- A large toothed comb to help comb through the hair with ease
- A rat-tailed comb for parting and combing around the hairline
- Moisturising shampoo – afro hair lacks moisture and need to be conditioned regularly, and after each wash. Obtain a good moisturising shampoo made specifically for African hair types
Do - Use Afro Hair Products
When dealing with African hair, ukhairdresseers.com recommends using a good range of products specifically geared towards African hair to achieve the best result. “A good moisturising prime care product is essential when dealing with Afro hair; well moisturised hair will prevent breakage and the hair becoming brittle,” writes a hair stylist a ukhairdressers.com. Always try to use African hair care products and:
- Use a moisturising shampoo at least twice during each wash (wash once or twice per week) to help retain moisture in your hair
- Apply detangling conditioner. Most conditioners made for African hair are naturally detangling but there are a few that are not, for example deep conditioning conditioners
- Apply a generous amount of leave-in conditioner after using a deep conditioner
Don’t - Use Chemicals, Hair Dye and Hot Tongs
African hair is naturally the weakest of all hair types, and although relaxing it provides an easier alternative to dealing with the curls, it can also be very damaging. Colouring does not do Afra hair much good either; it causes damage to the hair, making it dry and frizzy. Additionally, avoid straightening natural kinky hair too often using flat irons or hot tongs.
Using hot tongs once or twice a month is unlikely to cause any damage to the hair, as long as plenty of moisturising products are used as well. Once straightened in this way, the straight hair could last as long as 10 days. Rather than applying chemicals or heat to the hair, try going for the natural look. Kinky twists and the twisted out looks are particularly effective in dealing with natural African hair.
Clementine Nyembo - Clementine is freelance writer and journalist currently contributing to several online publications. Apart from Suite101, she has been ...
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